The home break was unbelievably crowded on Sunday. I even heard a guy in the parking lot ask the question we’ve all been asking for many a Sunday: “Doesn’t anybody go to church anymore?” The number of people in the water was completely ridiculous. I’d love to say the interlopers cause all the problems, that [...]
Author Archive mmills
How To Avoid Surf Injuries
When summer comes, people surf more often. As a result, people get injured more often. Quite a few of my friends and acquaintances are complaining of a sore this and a strained that. Several friends continue to surf even though their bodies are waving the white flag of defeat. When warned about slowing down or [...]
Black Surfer Reality TV Show – Whose Reality Is It?
This weeks guest post by Mary Mills (Surfsister) asks why the need for a reality TV show based on black surfers? Read her every move here each Tuesday in her weekly column. What would you do if someone approached you to sit down and discuss a possible reality TV show? Was that question vague enough [...]
Rule Number 1, Never Forget Your Wetsuit
This weeks guest post by Mary Mills (Surfsister) is all about the horror of horrors of forgetting your wetsuit when it’s going off. Read her every move here each Tuesday in her weekly column. How’s that for coincidence? This was not one of my better days. Being the “epitome of efficiency” that I am (or [...]
Surfing Etiquette Be Damned
This weeks guest post by Mary Mills (Surfsister) tackles the clueless idiots in the lineup who ruin perfectly good surf with their self-centered stupidity. Read her every move here each Tuesday in her weekly column. Is it me or are people completely clueless as to the right way and the wrong way to behave in [...]
Why Your Surf Family Is For Life
This weeks guest post by Mary Mills (Surfsister) tackles the wonders of the surf family of strangers. Read her every move here each Tuesday in her weekly column. Last night, for the first time since I started surfing, I came to the realization that the crew at my home break is, for better or worse, [...]
