As I lay near death, certain of my impending demise from either the consumption, the plague, Tuberculosis or some other dreaded disease which causes one to believe the end is near, I wondered how I would get myself out of my predicament. There was still much more life to live. I had a child to [...]

I did just that on Friday even though I knew I’d probably pay for it on Saturday. (And I did . . . pay for it on Saturday.) When I awoke on Friday morning, in the dark, I just wasn’t feeling myself. Normally, I greet the day . . . okay, the night as it [...]

The surfing world, as I’ve said in previous blog posts, is not one where a great deal of time is spent discussing the finer points of non-violence and love. This is not to say that we surfers are prone to violence or bad attitudes. However, it’s fair to say that most of us don’t spend [...]

This is not a post for the lovelorn surfer who’s looking for love in all the wrong lineups after a nasty break-up. Being the board whore that I am, when I talk about “magic” in a surfing context, I’m always referring to the long-held belief in the magic board. I have had quite a few [...]

Sometimes they say it. Sometimes they don’t. Most of the time, I know what they’re thinking: “What the fuck is that thing?” Mat riders all over the world have seen this look. Those of us who surf crowded lineups know it well. It’s the moment when the other surfers realize you’re lying prone on something [...]

If someone had told me, as recently as six months ago, that there would be a point in time when I’d be riding a skateboard as much as I ride my surfboard, I would have laughed and used some pointed words—words that Spongebob and Patrick humorously refer to as “sentence enhancers”. But I digress. My [...]