It´s 5:30am and my eyes open as if called by a higher force. The Sun is already shining as I gaze out of my front window to see all swell predictions the wrong side of right, a 4-5 feet east swell producing peeling waves, something quite rare at my beach break. A clean, surprise, sunny [...]

The surfing world, as I’ve said in previous blog posts, is not one where a great deal of time is spent discussing the finer points of non-violence and love. This is not to say that we surfers are prone to violence or bad attitudes. However, it’s fair to say that most of us don’t spend [...]

Our regular Wednesday guest blogger, Miss Mia Legg, is back with another edition of ‘The Realm of the Kooks.’ This time she’s taking localism head on and taking no prisoners! “Remember that movie Blue Crush?” asked Random Surfer #1. “Yeah,” replied Random Surfer #2. “Remember the scene where that dude gets beat up for surfing [...]

The following is a guest post by Mary Mills (Surfsister) Surfer, Skater, Mom and Pistachio addict. Read her every move each Tuesday in her new weekly column. Last week, I talked about what it means to be a local. I specifically made mention of the local from my home break with the “shaved head, thick [...]

The following is a guest post by Mary Mills (Surfsister) Surfer, Skater, Mom and Pistachio addict. Read her every move each Tuesday in her new weekly column. What Makes One A Local? This is a question I think about on a regular basis. Why? Well, I don’t live at the beach. I don’t even live [...]