Where the Lines Between Localism and Surf Bullying Completely Diverge

The surfing world, as I’ve said in previous blog posts, is not one where a great deal of time is spent discussing the finer points of non-violence and love. This is not to say that we surfers are prone to violence or bad attitudes. However, it’s fair to say that most of us don’t spend the better part of our time talking to one another about the influence of Gandhi, Mother Teresa and Martin Luther King on our behavior, both in and out of the water.

One for all and all for one

Most of us are well aware that surfing does have its unpleasant moments, particularly when they involve locals who believe an outsider needs to be taught a lesson in respect. Such lessons often start as a verbal warning—only to end in a situation where punches are thrown. This kind of situation is always a hot topic in the surfing world. People chime in with their two cents, some arguing that all surfers should practice aloha toward one another while the others at the opposite end of the spectrum wonder why the punishment wasn’t more severe. This is when the generalizing begins. This is when the stereotypes about ill-tempered, stingy, wave-hogging locals are trotted out to be leered at like some two-headed pitbull that’s frothing at the mouths.

I continue to argue, both here and on my personal blog, that “localism” is hardly a four-letter word. Recent events at my home break brought that point home yet again.

Last weekend, as usual, many of us who surf there on a regular basis were gathered in the parking lot—some slowly deciding whether to go out and others trying to decide when to go out. Yet others, myself included, were grabbing the costumes we’d be donning for a Halloween surf contest. Suffice it to say, everyone was in a good mood. The sun was out. The sky was blue. All seemed right with the world.

We heard him long before he approached us, screaming racial epithets and nonsensical thoughts that tumbled out of his mouth in anger. He was tweaking. That was clear. But he was keeping his distance. Perhaps, at that point, he possessed enough sense to recognize that his safety could be in jeopardy in a heartbeat.

He eventually tired of yelling at us and moved through the parking lot, still shouting invectives to no one in particular. He spotted one of the female locals standing alone and went on the attack. One of the male locals rushed to her aid, only to have the attack turned on him. Once the punches were thrown, there was no hesitation. The locals were on him. By the time he was allowed to get off the ground, he was bloodied and in tears. And he got no sympathy from the police.

Internet discussions about localism are generally accompanied by the argument that locals are bullies, bullies who lay claim to waves that should be accessible to anyone. People rarely talk about the fact that locals act as an ersatz police force at their home breaks. Locals often do what’s necessary to keep their spots safe for everyone who visits their beaches. In that respect, at least in my mind, they do have the right to claim ownership of those waves. They’ve fought for them. They’ve surfed them when no one else will (such as during the dead of winter). There are reasons why locals, no matter the location of the beach, demand respect. Assuming that those reasons are merely superficial is turning a blind eye to the big picture.

Always, always respect the locals. They may not immediately share the waves. They will, however, protect their beaches as much as possible. And the person they protect in the parking lot one day might just be you.

Related posts:

1. How to Speed Your Way Up the Localism Chart
2. What Makes One A Local?
3. Jonny Rotten And The Rotten Sunday At The Home Break